I want to add a few updates as I re-test these in the decant spray. I begin my elimination process in trying to determine if I want to plunk down the bucks for full bottles of any of these. Check back on this post over the course of the weekend, as I will add my final thoughts on each fragrance.
Bel Respiro - I adore this, but I am not kidding the luscious vibrant green stemmy note is gone in 5 minutes or less. You are left with a very soft green, which is nice, but so close to the skin I simply cannot smell it with out pressing my nose to skin. As much as I love the beginning, this one is out of the running. I am very sad, I love what this one could have been.
Coromandel - Definitely more presence when sprayed, as I did say, this is the longest lasting of the group.Upon spraying the benzoin comes on particularly strong. I barely noticed it when applied by vial. It really dominates here in the spray. Still not getting amber. As much as I thought by description this was the one for me, I am eliminating it also.
Eau de Cologne - I liked this one even more upon liberal spraying, but still I'm not sure I want a gallon (oops, 400ml) of it. Lemoney and sweet, but I think you can find the same effect with longer lasting ability with Fresh's Lemon Sugar. I guess I might buy a big decant for summer if I see it on eBay.
31 Rue Cambon - Still my favorite of the group, I am begining to think it reminds me of a cross between No 22 and Bois des Iles. Both of which I like better. Hummm.
The newest release from Gendarme is Sky, set to debut May 2007. Those of us lucky enough to attend the LA Sniffapalooza were gifted with a generous 10ml decant PREVIEW of the lovely new scent. Not to mention getting to personally meet Topper Schroeder. I was fortunate enough to have a little chat with him at lunch and found him interesting, kind and gracious.
The juice is a pale sky blue. No notes were given, but to my nose there is a lot of bergamot in the opening, and that being one of my favorite notes, is probably why this one is so appealing.
Over all I would call this an "Aquatic" having said that, I began to wonder the difference between Aquatic and Ozone notes. While smelling this my initial reaction is aquatic, but with a name like Sky, I guess it would be safer to say it's an ozone note. And I must say if there is a difference in the two, my mind cannot summon the other while smelling this one. Either way you get the drift. The drydown remains aquatic, but what seems to be a peppered wood comes into play.
I realize many are adverse to these fresh scents, but this one is very well done and I think it will be quite lovely on a Spring day, in fact it is quite lovely on this day in warm sunny Southern California today.
For comparison you might like to read the lovely description written on the For The Love OF ... blog. Funny, my impression is this is a Feminine fragrance that might work Unisex, as you will see she feels the opposite: SKY - Review
Today I'm wearing Gendarme Sky, my review to follow soon! What are you wearing?
Blogger is frustrating me and it took about 20 minutes to figure out how to bypass the "Upgrade" to the NEW and Improved Blogger screen, so I feel the move is inevitable. I will give in this weekend. Wish me luck! I hope to see you Monday!
Do you remember that perfect kiss? No not the first kiss, Steve King running up to you in the crosswalk on the way to sixth grade and planting one right on your lips. Ewww! No, I mean the Perfect one. The one that took your breath away. Sarah Horowitz-Thran of Creative Sentualization has now created: Perfect Kiss
Samples of this great new fragrance were presented to us exclusively as a Pre-Release at the LA Sniffapalooza. Intended to be released to the public on Valentine's Day, unfortunately we will have to wait till Mother's Day to get our hands on a full bottle of this heavenly juice.
I have been struggling to determine the notes. There is a chocolate note there but not in an obvious chocolate way, more the way tonka beans project chocolate, or an illusion of chocolate. I also detect hints of rose. There is an ever so slightly indolic jasmine in the base. I get a Apres L'Ondee feel at times, which make me think there may be either anise or violets involved in the fray. It is sweet like nectar but not candy sweet. Whatever it is I want it. Now.
Please see the lovely review by For The love of ... Blog Perfect Kiss
Les Exclusifs de Chanel is comprised of 10 fragrances. There are 6 new fragrances added to the existing 4 exclusive boutique collection which includes Cuir de Russie, Bois des Iles, Chanel no 22, and Gardenia and are created by nose Jacques Polge. Polge said that "We wanted fragrances which were unusual and special," he said, noting that while several are favorite notes, most are too costly to use in a more widely distributed scent such as the house's Chance or Coco Mademoiselle. "Above all, we tried to do fragrances which are very different from one another and very different from what is currently offered in the market. These are the ingredients [that] we simply wouldn't have in the quantity to use in a more widely distributed fragrance."
I have reviewed the new Chanels in order of my preference - I think - at least for now:
31 Rue Cambon - (an experimental chypre that omits the classic oakmoss note) a "dry, musky, nutty scent." Starting out a dry iris and a little woody, this one surprised me because I don't normally like this dry of a scent. But there is a hint of sweetness here that blooms in the mid notes and reminds me of a less powdery No. 22. Drying down very soft with a lightly sweet finish. Vary elegant.
Bel Respiro - (green leaves and stems) "intended to evoke stems, leaves and springtime." Immediately on first sniff I thought Aliage. The same bold greeness. Definitely getting the cut stems here. If you are an Aliage fan, you will love this too. Unlike Aliage, unfortunately this settles down too quickly into a soft slightly sweet, green scent. Still nice, but too bad the top notes don't hang around longer.
Coromandel - (dry ambery oriental) "an oriental fragrance using a tree resin called benzoin, which has vanilla-like properties"...Like Chanel's apartment that inspired it, it is not "innocent", it is "weighted by frankincense" and "contains a hint of the heavier spices of the East". I thought sure I would like this one best, but actually it's my third choice. A touch of Pois de Senteur and dab of Teint de Neige with a slight green notes that runs throughout. I'm not really finding any amber here.
Eau de Cologne- "a lively floral.... with citrus, bergamot and neroli." A typical summer splash cologne with the feel of 4711 meets Fresh Sugar, then inexplicably begins turning sweeter and sweeter. Which I thought was different, but nice, since I like sweet.
28 La Pausa- (iris)"a powdery scent based on the oil from iris pallida (known as sweet iris), one of the most expensive products available to perfumers..." "named for a house Mlle. Chanel owned in the South of France." No.31 is a nicer Iris in my book, but I guess I'm not an iris enthusiast. Starting out very dry iris, sweetening in the middle resembling Iris Poudre, then ending (way too fast I might add) with a slight green note, before fading to nothingness.
No. 18- (Ambrette seed)"named for the Chanel fine jewelry boutique at Place Vendome." Last on my list. Not sure what to make of this, it's not bad, but not really good either. A bit harsh and raspy in the opening, slightly peppery, then as with the others, it sweetens slightly in the drydown. Wearable, but why?
Where to get your hands on a sample set? Some of you may know Nancy, a trusted eBay fragrance seller whom I hope you will add to your favorite sellers! Her eBay name is Fishbone96 her store is: Fishbone Fragrances.
Lovely Nancy is selling the CHANEL EXCLUSIFS - SIX Sample Set! Small Vial sets or Decant Sets or just one or two, anything you want just ask and she will quote you. She has them all and is ready to ship now! Please email inquiries to her directly at: firstname.lastname@example.org For a great price and fast shipping!
Bottom Line -I'm surprised to find them all quite wearable. I see a common trait that runs throughout, a light sweetness that begins mid way and develops differently in each. I like sweet, but I think this will deter some. I think I'll order a decant set and wear them a couple days each before commiting to a bottle that large. Or even to sharing a bottle. The impulse is to buy a bottle or two or three of your favorites. But I think we need to step back from the hype and really consider if we love these, over what we already own, or enough to wear it often enough to justify the price and size. And another note or reminder here - they are EDT and don't last long! Yes, most can still be detected if you smoosh your nose to your arm, but I need a liberal spraying to see how they are really going to perform by mid-day on the job. Touch up decants will be required throughout the day I suspect, but then I guess 200ml will go a long way.
The fragrances are available for $175 for 200ml and the eau de cologne for $300 for a 400ml splash bottle.
My Chanel reviews are coming! Some of you many know Nancy, a trusted eBay fragrance seller whom I hope you will add to your favorite sellers! Her eBay name is Fishbone96 her store is: Fishbone Fragrances.
Lovely Nancy is selling the CHANEL EXCLUSIFS - SIX Sample Set! Small Vial sets or Decant Sets or just one or two, anything you want just ask and she will quote you. She has them all and is ready to ship now! Please email inquiries to her directly at: email@example.com For a great price and fast shipping! How exciting!! Stay Tuned!!
Immediately upon testing this one, there was a familiarity. And no, not a flashback from my days at Ohio University. In fact I don't smell any cannabis at all and neither did hubby upon the wrist under nose test or in the drydown. There is a slight cool greenness here that I attribute to the absinthe note, but I can't be sure. Aside from that, it's all CK One. Not to say that's a bad thing. I wore CK One for a few years, and still like it, although I don't currently own it. It's a cool, fresh, clean scent. Uplifting and happy.
For comparison I did a little research and found no less than FIVE matching notes shared between the two. I have included both sets of notes below. Now I have a lovely friend with a much different skin type than me and on her the cannabis flies in full glory. So as the LuckyScent copy reads it is a "chameleon-like scent and highly reactive to everyone's own unique body chemistry, we passed it around and were able to smell a gorgeous cornucopia of scents on different people."
CK One Notes: Bergamot, Cardamom, Fresh Pineapple, Papaya, Jasmine, Violet, Rose, Nutmeg, Musk
Absolument Absinthe Notes: Cannabis, black tea, bergamot, Iranian galbanum, lily of the valley, lotus flower, jasmine, ylang-ylang, nutmeg, Ceylon cardamom, sandalwood, musks
Well here I am still reeling from the events on Saturday. I can't even imagine how the two Karens are holding up, flying back to NYC and trying to get up and go to work! Hugs to you both!
And my two new friends Linda and Rob, I hope you made it back to Scottsdale (Surprise, AZ) with no problems. I can't wait to hear of your LA Sunday morning adventures! Please email me!
Thanks again to the Team Karen I thought the event went great! If there were any problems it wasn't apparent to the participants, it seemed to all flow smoothly. Again thank you for bringing this even to our coast! Towards the end of the event, I forgot to take pictures. So engrossed in conversation with my new friends, I found when I got home, I had no pictures of the two Karens, Raphaella, Marlen or Chado or Palmetto. Apologies to all!
I wanted to mention the rain did hold off (thank you to my friend who's prayers did the trick) I am so happy the weather was sunny and warm, just perfect! The way in which lovely Southern CA should be represented and remembered!
A little more about the people I met can be found here on the POL link, scroll down to my second entry. Perfume of Life
Thank You to Franco from LuckyScent for sharing with us many new samples at lunch. Oh my, there are some great new ones on the way! As is always the case with LuckyScent, isn't it? I can't even remember all the names, even if I could release them you. Beautifully crafted, hard to find treasures that Franco scouts out from all over the globe to present to us. Isn't he the best? One I remember is Smilies, a fresh, sweet citrus scent for spring that had us all nodding in approval of the scent and the unique packaging. Watch for it and the exclusive new releases coming soon to: LuckyScent! And of course, anyone wanting to purchase Anne Pliska EDP or the sumptuous-delicious-decadent new Perfumed Creme from the gift bag samples can also find it here: Anne Pliska
Now I want to re-cap a few of the lovely sniffs along the way -
Check this out - I didn't buy anything but a t-shirt. I was going to buy IF, but it was in the gift bag! I plan to review it later this week. I did sniff some tempting Apothia and Burn candles, but I'm simply out of room. I got to sniff Czech & Speake 88, as a lovely lady passed around her arm. Very nice on her and a favorite of Ozzy Osborn's I'm told.
At lunch we got sneak peaks of some new LuckyScent lines but I didn't get the names or the notes, but they were mighty fine. And again Smilies as I mentioned above. And yes, Smilies, as in the yellow smiley faces. I can see myself owing this one, I am partial to sweet, clean citrus.
Creative Scentualizaton's new scents were also a big hit. Beauty Comes From Within and Perfect Kiss were both winners. Reviews to follow on these later this week as well. I might even spring for her Perfect Gardenia on my next trip. It is a lovely rending of a scent that is so hard to capture.
At LAFCO, I re-tried Santa Maria Novella Citta di Kyoto. I had been meaning to purchase this one, and still am working from my decant. After sniffing again, I found that I really prefer Heeley Cardinal. My review here: Cardinal - Review The Kyoto seemed a little too dry by comparison and not as lively. You can read my Kyoto review here: Cittadi Kyoto -Review. I tried several other of their florals but I like the ones I already own. The Gaggia (Mimosa) being one of the best. Tempted by the strange yet interesting Iris Toothpaste that both Tom and Manny bought, I resisted.
At the Lorenzo Villoresi counter I again tried a few that didn't work for me in the past. Incensi, was a bit too masculine as was Dilmun. Although Dilmun had me very close to caving. I may end up with this one later on. I retired Alamut and actually liked it much better this time, but still resisted - you can read my Alamut review here: Alamut-Review.
At Palmetta I tried Gendarme Green, which although masculine, felt very wearable for summer. I will have re-try that one on skin.
Sniffapalooza Report! Ok, wow. Can I say it again? Wow. What a day of people, places, sniffing, food, friends. Although I have been to and organized local sniffas, this was my first Sniffapalooza. I think above all, in reflection, what always stands out in my mind are the people. The camaraderie goes beyond a common bond, there is a connection on a deeper level.
Thank you to both Karens for putting on this first LA event! I don't know how they managed to do such a great job working from NY, but everything seemed to go as planned. Everyone had a wonderful time and the speakers and gift bags were exceptional! Everyone agreed it was a huge success! It was wonderful meeting you!
The day began at Fred Segal in West Hollywood where we checked in and had a lovely breakfast. After breakfast we enjoyed several guest speakers, all of which were so interesting and at times quite entertaining. The mood was relaxed and casual, yet people listened intently as if to gain each important drop of knowledge.
Among the speakers were:
Kio Kamoche - Nyakio. Ms. Kamoche a first generation American told us about her product line, many of which were made from formulas handed down through her Kanyan heritage. Ms. Kamoche passed around her lovely smelling scrubs that were mouthwatering and smelled just delicious.
Sarah Horowitz-Thran - Creative Scentualizaton. Ms. Horowitz-Thran told us how she started her company and even passed around one of her very first creations still in the original bottle. A scent workshop would follow at our lunch event.
Topper Schroeder - Gendarme. Mr Schroeder recounted to us the beginnings of Gendarme and how his scent came to be. Did you know he created it for himself and never really meant for it to be in distribution? I had an opportunity to talk personally with him at lunch, and found him to be charming and engaging. He invited us all to drop by the Gendarme Shop, and I got the feeling if we did he would take time to personally speak with us. By the way - We got EXCLUSIVE first sniffs of the new Gendarme called SKY debuting May 2007. (And it is lovely - my review to follow)
Author Jan Moran - So energetic and so knowledgeable! Wow this little lady knows her stuff and graciously hung out afterwards to personally autograph her book copies.
Francois Duquense - L'Artisan. Mr. Duquense vividly retold the tale of his childhood in Grass, picking the jasmine flowers for money to buy candy and longing to learn more and more about the making of perfumes. Also hinting at more delicious limited editions to follow, as well as a bath and body line.
Gary McNatton - Through Smoke Creative. Mr McNatton recounted his story of how his unique scent, Grass, was created and how his successful relationship with The Gap began.
Silke Steinberg - Tocca. Ms. Steinberg brought samples and testers for us to pass around and again allowed us an EXCLUSIVE preview of the up coming release of Tocca Cleopatra.
Neal Harris - Harris Fragrances. Mr. Harris treated us to the effects of his Scentevents company which scents the air with fragrances based on the event. Outside at registration the lovely Velvet Rope wafted thought the courtyard. Mr. Harris' company also does movie red carpet events, namely - a chocolate essence for the Willy Wonka movie, Lavender fields and more for the Perfume: Story Of a Murderer premier.
Ron Robinson - Apothia Aromatic. Mr. Robinson spoke of his passion for perfume and how he developed the Apothia Brand. In addition of hosting lunch, his gift bag was simply awesome. Some of the contents varied, but mine contained a convenient LA city map, full size Tocca Stella creme, 3ml Velvet Rope sample, 15ml IF edp spray, 6.2ml Perfect Nectar Oil, full size L'Artisan The Pour Un Ete shower gel, Nyakio body scrub, body creme, body wash, and body serum.
The speakers hung out with us afterwards chatting and answering questions. We buzzed about talking amongst ourselves and sniffing the fragrance offerings inside the Apothia shop.
Apothia Sniffapalooza t-shirts were a GWP over $100, as well as an entry ticket for the fabulous $1000.00 gift basket, filled with candles and fragrances. Our own lovely poster - Dawn, won this delightful prize!! Congratulations it looked just spectacular, enjoy!
The group then moved to the restaurant Chocolat for lunch. A very nice place with great food and a killer chocolate souffle. Sarah Horowitz-Thran of Creative Scentualizations presented a workshop where we all passed around and sniffed various notes. Then we were each treated to a goodie bag containing EXCLUSIVE samples of her upcoming scents; Beauty Comes From Within and Perfect Kiss!
Ok - next stop Santa Maria Novella! Greeted at the door by an adorable and welcoming little doggie, with a sweet face and round tummy. Inside we sniffed the Santa Maria Novella line, as well as Lorenzo Villoresi and Eau d'Italie, while being treated to amazing cocktails made with SMN Liqueurs. Did I mention the 20% discount? And a gift bag with a large Potpourri and other samples personally handed out buy the owner.
Whew! Tired yet? Those coffee beans came in handy! Off to tea!
Next stop Chado Tea Room. High tea and more goodies! Marlen Harrison of the PerfumeCritic.com blog treated to some samples and a drawing for Penhaligon's sample sets and more. Marlen, we had no idea you were such a charming speaker in addition to a great blogger.
Adam Eastwood from the Scent Bar/LuckyScent spoke about the beginnings of their store and how their concept grew. The invitation was given to stop by tomorrow, they would extend their hours to help accommodate us. Off and on there was much talk during the day about many of the scents at the Scent Bar. So much in fact, we know a few delinquent parties sneaked over there for a quick sniff.
Also at the tea room was Miryana Babic representing i Profumi di Firenze. Ms. Babic decsribed how she and her mother began their international import business and how iPdF got its start, sharing sniff strips and samples and moving on with us to our next and final destination: Palmetto.
Palmetto - The night air was cool and refreshing as we walked the few blocks from the tea house to Palmetto. I think everyone welcomed the chance to walk off a bit of the days temptations as well as take in the fresh air. At Palmetto we wandered around sniffing and were treated their in-house make-up artist. Some of us lingered and a few stood around outside, tired from the day, yet not really wanting it to end. I think if a magic limo pulled up, not one of us would hesitate to jump in a head on to the next sniffing adventure. But lacking this magical event, we said our goodbyes, hugs and emails exchanged, promises to meet again. And you know what? I am confident we will.
Thank you so much to all my new friends that made this experience that much richer for me. Meeting you made all the difference. I will remember your stories, your laughter, even your favorite notes, until we meet again!
Anne Pliska for me today, we have a work party today. What are you wearing?
Oh BTW - I just want to add something about the Anne Pliska Creme - What LuckyScent is offering is a NEW FORMULA Perfumed Body Creme in an upright tube. Very easy to use and more perfumed. Lovely, if you are an Anne Pliska fan, I know you will love it.
Esprit du Tigre or Spirit of the Tiger is interesting. At first I thought I didn't like it. Yet, slowly it began to seduce me. The opening is unique to say the least. A camphor mint combo with spicy undertones.
Those who love Heeley will quickly recognize this as the same mint note as used in the Menthe Fraiche. The Mint was my first Heeley purchase and a staple in my summer fragrance wardrobe. Reaching for it over and over, I fell hard for the delicate, cool, soft mint note.
Upon first sniffing Tiger you may think sports creme, as intended; it was meant to mimic the scent of Tiger Balm, hence the name. But really the clove note is the dominate note of this fragrance, and truly a star. Kept crisp and fresh by the underlying soft mint. Those who love clove will be more than pleased. Even carnation lovers may be pleasantly surprised by the drydown of the clove.
I am as surprised as you to think that this may just be FBW (Full Bottle Worthy). I am passing on the last of my sample to a friend, but I already have that craving. The one that says BUY IT NOW.
These latest three Heeley offerings seem to be geared more masculine, the names, the bold titles and the more masculine bottle shape. But I have to say they are done in very much a unisex way, myself being one to rarely venture into men's cologne feel very comfortable in these, in fact.
Today I'm off to a late start! I put some Fakkai body creme on last night and it is still so strong! I don't reaaly like the scent but it is very moisturizing and I'm trying to use it up. I'll check in later with my scent of the day. I have a bit of decanting to do today.
Ok this was just toooo darn cute not to pass it on. Posted on the POL board by lovely TovahAgain, who also checks in here - Check out this ADORABLE ecard for us perfume fanatics: Hallmark.com - You Smell Goooood