Chanel No. 5 Eau Premiere - Chanel - Review

Oh Chanel, your very name evokes fashion couture and legendary fragrance. And nothing more so than that famous number; No. 5.

With all its marketing strategy and hype, No. 5 Sensual Elixir somehow managed to miss the mark, smelling not quite the same as the original formula, yet not different enough to be remarkable. Too bad because the smooth scented gel was a sensual delight. The gel concept and the way it melts into the skin still makes it a popular choice for those seeking a more wearable No. 5. Yet still, it's not quite right.

But where the elixir missed the mark, Eau Premiere is right on. A sexy contemporary version of this classic fragrance. Those old school, die hard original formula lovers won't budge an inch here, but then it's not meant to move them. This is created for the new legends. Turbulent, wild and fresh this is the fragrance that suits Nicole. It is vibrant and alive with sexy under currents that pull you in for a closer sniff.

Chanel No. 5 Eau Premiere is in limited release to Saks only right now. I'm hoping it will open with wider distribution soon as I have a gift certificate saved away and the $125 price tag is worth the wait.

Shalini - Review

Ahhh ... I smell completely, deliciously, lovely today! And you can too for only $900! Well if you want to cheap-out you can only spend $400, but hey at this price might as well go for the Lalique falcon. Life is short, right?

Is it that good, you say? Well unfortunately, yes. It is complex and deep while still managing somehow to be delicate and tender. Created by Maurice Roucel the notes include tuberose, neroli, tiare, sandalwood and musk. I'm rather surprised to find there is tuberose in here, it is a quite tame non-indolic tuberose, rather sweet and fresh. Overall it's a lovely bouquet of perfectly composed flowers resting on a soft base of sandalwood and musk. Sexy and understatedly elegant.

Like I mentioned to a poster the other day, I do struggle in my mind with the idea of the exclusivity and price tag, does it serve to influence? I try to think not, but on some level it has to. I wish it were available in non-crystal and perhaps an EDP version. It does lay a bit close to the skin, which adds to its sensuality, but I would prefer it to surround me.

If you are like me, you too can be queen for a day by purchasing a sample and lavishing the whole thing on yourself in one dose, one perfect day to enjoy this lovely parfum as if you owned it.

Now if you have the big bucks, you may purchase 1oz in the more plain crystal bottle for $400, or pay $900 for the limited edition butterfly wing design Lalique falcon which contains 2.2oz.

Availabe at: Aedes

Black Violet - Tom Ford - Review

Oh my goodness how can it be that I love two of the new Tom Ford Collection and I've yet to sniff them all? The line I had no interest in is suddenly beginning to feel like the ultimate dresser set. If I buy them all do I get the tray at least, or is that another grand?

I am trying to convince myself that this one is too similar to my precious Armani Prive Cuir Amethyste. Yet is scares me to think, might it be better? After all I do love my Amethyste, but I fear that formula I own no longer exists and was tweaked to be more masculine. This one is violets and woods and something that smells like cold cream. The fruits seems to make it juicy without actually smelling fruity. It is irresistible and I cannot keep from sniffing my wrist.

Notes: citrus, pulpy fruit accord, black violet, woody notes, oakmoss

Amber Absolute - Tom Ford - Review

I have to say I find myself quite amazed to be sitting here and sniffing this delicious aroma that is Tom Ford Amber Absolute. I had absolutely no intent of even buying a sample set after the letdown of the Chanels and considering the price of these offerings. Yet, how could I not sniff when a generous friend handed over her sample set to me? It is perfumista law to sniff. And sniff I did.

Immediately I proclaimed, "I must have this." When an amber is so quintessentially perfect it gives you goose bumps when you sniff it, you must own it. There is a smoky note in the top that usually would turn me away but here it is perfectly blended becoming one with the amber. Slowly it softens into a soft, woody, incensey amber. It is stunning.

Swoonworthy is my final verdict to all my fellow amber lovers. Be forwarned, save your pennies or do not sniff at all.

Notes: amber, African incense, labdanum, rich woods, and vanilla bean

Coney Island - Bond No. 9 - Review

Here in usually sunny Southern California, Spring seems to be noncommittal; one day calling for sandals the next for boots. It has never really felt like Spring for any length of time. Now that it is almost May, we are all wondering when it will come. But one whiff of Coney Island, Spring is bypassed and suddenly Summer is here!

Opening with a tangy margarita note to make your mouth water, with eyes closed, one can even imagine salt on the rim. At the same time there is a slight beachy aspect, or do I just imagine that as well? Whatever it is, it's quite bewitching and I've fallen completely under its spell. This will feel icy cool in the heat of the summer most assuredly. The composition eventually mellows into a very delish, lightly fruity, citrus that wears beautifully throughout the day. On my skin the mid notes never really appeared, not that I'm complaining. I had everyone in my office take a mandatory arm sniff and all agreed it smells quite delicious. Light vanilla and light wood appear much later in the drydown. Maybe on others the mid notes will appear, but I'm perfectly happy the way this one develops on me. I think it will work well for most. Another great, must have Summer scent! I have included the notes below that read like a summer cottage shopping list, as well as Bond's press release for your reading pleasure.

FROM BOND NO. 9:
First the Hamptons… then Fire Island… now Coney Island:
When it Comes to Summer Scents and Explosive Fun, Bond No. 9 is Covering All the New York Beaches.

What is the smell of fun—and how do you bottle it? That was our mission at Bond No. 9 when we decided to capture the essence of Coney Island and turn it into an eau de parfum. Why Coney Island? We were intrigued by the vintage allure of this century-old fantasy-land with its honky-tonk chic, its Mermaid Parade, its incomparable hotdog haven (Nathan’s Famous) fronting the Atlantic Ocean along Brooklyn’s southernmost edge. But we wanted to celebrate its future, too, just as a formidable revival is getting under way.

Coney Island isn’t just any amusement park. In its early 20th century heyday, New York’s premier people’s playground was a rowdy, mind-numbing pleasure-mecca that more than matched the energies of the city that contained it. Its daredevil rides—the legendary nine-hill Cyclone roller coaster … the Wonder Wheel … the freefall Parachute Jump—set a fevered, frantic pace, while its bathing pavilions were more like phantasmagorical gilded palaces that shimmered in the air. Not to forget the raucous nightspots. For a city that where glancing at strangers for more than two seconds has always been an impertinence, here was an escape hatch—a Bacchanalia where one and all had free rein to scream together in terror and joy. Sure, in recent decades Coney Island fell into decline, but today it is decidedly on the upswing, with brand new rides, a water park, and a mammoth glass atrium in the works.

Bond No 9’s Coney Island conjures up both the magical history and the reawakening of this beachfront paradise. Combined in this contemporary gourmand delight are the sugar-cool notes of margarita mix, hypnotically seductive chocolate and caramel, plus cedarwood. The high-voltage blue bottle recalls the Coney Island’s expanse of sea and sky, while the contrasting gold neck evokes the thousands of electric lights that once lit up its night sky.

Launch Date: June 1st 2007

Top Notes:
MARGARITA MIX, with fiery tequila blanco already poured in
Un-humble MELON that goes way beyond fruit salad
Freshly-ripened GUAVA that’s naughty but sweet

Mid Notes:
CINNAMON win sensual mode (fougedaboud apple pie)
CHOCOLATE – the stimulant with the tasty mega-kick
Pour-able CARAMEL, out to intoxicate

Bottom Notes:
Decadent, unredeemed MUSK
VANILLA that’s not minding its manners
Cool and collected CEDARWOOD … because somebody’s got to put on the brakes
Mellow SANDALWOOD, like settling down after a pulse-quickening roller coaster ride

Bond No. 9 - Website

Reverie au jardin - Tauer Perfumes - Review

I will start by saying lavender is not my thing. So as much as I appreciate Andy Tauer's craftsmanship, I was scared this would be very un-me. But on the contrary, this is very me. On my skin the lavender make the briefest of appearances then runs for the hills. Suddenly the iris bursts forth in powdery blooms. It is beautiful, warm and sexy. The powdery softness with a hint of rose makes one think of well-clad dressing tables of yore, with their rose water in bottles and round canisters of finely milled powders.

I get a soapy, clean, powdery presence with glimpses of florals that float in and out. As if your bathroom opened on to your garden, and you could lay in the tub with full view to your garden, the summer breeze blowing in the delicate wisps of scents. A lovely daydream.

It does lay close to the skin and reminds one more of clean soap and powdered skin, rather than something sprayed on the skin. Well done Andy, when you seduce, you do it masterfully. I am quite in love.

The perfumer, Andy Tauer says, "I love lavender, in all its facets ranging from herbaceous, spicy green notes to sweet, clean flowers and woody, vibrant chords. I wanted to create a fragrance that captures this complexity and transform it into a perfume. A perfume that melts into the skin, and makes me dream of green lands and twinkling stars. The notesThe head notes are very green and fresh- lavender (high altitude mountain lavender from France, galbanum and fir balm with bergamot and rose absolute from Bulgaria softening the herbaceous lavender. They lead over to a musky, fresh heart note (frankincense from India and ambrette seeds) with a woody and flowery orris line.The body note is the most complex part of the scent, being a soft, and airy wood accord (vetiver, tonka beans, oakmoss). Hints of vanilla and ambergris, sandalwood and cedar wood play into a balsamic tone that seems to last for ever."

With any luck I will be able to meet with Andy when he comes to the Scent Bar in Los Angeles, and I am very much looking forward to that! Click here for more information on that event: Scent Bar

At this time Reverie au jardin is available for Pre-Order at Lucky Scent.

Photos: Tauer Perfumes, Better Homes and Gardens

40º à l’Ombre - Satallite - Review

If you like Pamplelune, you will love this one. They share a very prominent note. You know the one? Need I say more? Like Momma always said ... oh never mind. Sparkling and bubbly but wayyyy more grapefruit than orange, if you know what I mean. And I suspect you do.

"A light and sparkling scent
like an icy zest.
A bubble of freshness.
Orange Mirage! Infinitely Orange!"

LuckyScent interprets the name to mean 40 degrees in the shade. I like Satellite's description ... Orange "Mirage".

Notes: Lemon, orange, bergamot, grapefruit, jasmine, lavender, geranium, musk, sandalwood, patchouli

Available in the USA at:
LuckyScent
In Europe at:
SatelliteParis.Com

credits: LuckyScent & SatelliteParis.com

Corrida - Satellite - Review

Smelling suspiciously plummy for a non-plum scent, the black current must be working overtime or there are some notes missing here. Deep raspberry is present too, bringing to mind Emanuel Ungaro Apparition but ... not. This may be a favorite of red fruit lovers, but the rich deep fruit played against the creamy sandalwood is making me queasy. Ripe fruit sitting in a wooden bowl in the sun all day at the bull fight. I'm trying to see the romance. As for animal torture, don't even get me started.

Googling around, I had hoped to fine some other meaning for Corrida with no luck. Although there was a car with a red corrida paint job. And guess what? Locked inside, sitting in the sun, was a bowl of very hot fruit.

"Red flowers and red fruits.
Definitely red, Red Corrida,
for a fragrance rich
as a dress made of light.
We all will be Aficionados!"

Here again we find vibrantly colored juice and a bottle that is oh so collection worthy. Don't let my review scare you off. If you love red fruits and a creamy finish this might work for you.

I would have liked a Sangria scent better, red fruits and citrus, a little vodka. Forget the florals and the bull. Literally.

Notes: Black currant, neroli, rose, lily of the valley, jasmine, floral accord, sandalwood

Available in the USA at:
LuckyScent
In Europe at:
SatelliteParis.Com

credits: LuckyScent & SatelliteParis.com

A la figue! - Satallite - Review

My second favorite of the Satallite new releases is a bit hard for a non-fig-lover to admit. Not fully understanding how "green" most fig scents are, this seems pretty green to me. Crisp and twiggy and at the same time cool and smooth as glass. There is a milky, creamy note that never gets too heavy or rich. I can feel my figgy friends swooning over my words. Yes, go ahead, buy it. And I'll take a decant please!

"Intense memory of a summer night
Hammock under the fig tree.
The magic moment of the scents come out,
underling with purple the horizon."

Again nice bottle, but the juice is so pale! They should have gone for a deep purple-red juice or even green in keeping with the vibrant theme. Cute little purple gem dangles.

Notes: Fig tree sap, fresh fig, iris, white lily of the valley, cyclamen, vanilla, cedar, white musk, patchouli

Available in the USA at:
LuckyScent
In Europe at:
SatelliteParis.Com

credits: LuckyScent & SatelliteParis.com

Ipanema - Satellite - Review

Ahhh I close my eyes and I breathe in - Ipanéma.
The warm breeze of summertime in Rio, toes in hot summer sand, the salty smell of the sea on my skin. My tall drink at hand and all is right with the world.

A delicate blending of the notes renders the composition just perfect. Not to salty, not too ozone, not too fruity or sweet. Like a soft sexy whisper again your skin, it's dreamy and exotic, and downright sexy.

"As a seashell polished by the wave
The turquoise smell of the ocean around a sand bank
Lying in the sun, pleasure of the beach ...
Blue foam of a summer romance "

As if the tantalizing description is not enough, feast your eyes on the vivid turquoise juice and the bottle topped with beach jewelry charms. If this isn't enough to make a winter-bored perfumista buy unsniffed, I don't know what will.

Notes: Ylang, orange, grapefruit, freesia, sandalwood, coco, white flowers, tonka bean, vanilla, sea accord, patchouli

If Fire Island was a little too lotion smelling for you, try this little escape to Rio.

Available in the USA at:
LuckyScent
In Europe at:
SatelliteParis.Com

credits: LuckyScent & SatelliteParis.com

Rousse - Serge Lutens - Review

Ahhh my recent clove addiction has found me delighted in several new fragrances I don't know how I lived without. One of which is Serge Lutens newest - Rousse.

I know this is supposed to be mainly a cinnamon infused scent, but I get clove. Lots of clove, simmering pots of potpourri at Christmas, orange studded clove pomanders, and yes cinnamon. Dry cinnamon sticks stirred into hot cider. Foody and rich gourmand spicy, mouthwatering and reminiscent of my childhood.

Some of you may remember my reference to my childhood experiments in my Grandmother's kitchen with my grade school friend Marcia. We loved to cook and bake as a diversion over the long summer vacation. One speciality was adding clove to orange Jell-O. A lot of clove. The taste was ummm … interesting. But the smell … divine. These scents bring back those smells from my Grandmother’s kitchen some 40 years ago. They are poignant and bittersweet.

I know some have been disappointed in this scent, and I think I know why. My guess is by the notes, what people may have been expecting was a dry, spicy, woody fragrance. But rather, they are greeted by a strong, foody, gourmand. Ahh well, their loss is my gain. I am sitting here with my nose glued to my arm on this warm and sunny spring-like day drifting back to those summers in Ohio and my Grandmother's kitchen.

I LOVE The Scented Salamander's Review where she identifies the "Tiger Balm accord" that is the theme of Heeley Spirit of the Tiger, another strongly scented clove fragrance that I find irrestible. Read her review here: The Scented Salamander

Notes:
Top: Floral Notes, Aromatic Notes, Fruit
Middle note : Cinnamon-Wood Note, Spices
Base note : Amber, Musks, Vanilla

Chanel Re-Evaluations by Spray

I want to add a few updates as I re-test these in the decant spray. I begin my elimination process in trying to determine if I want to plunk down the bucks for full bottles of any of these. Check back on this post over the course of the weekend, as I will add my final thoughts on each fragrance.

Bel Respiro - I adore this, but I am not kidding the luscious vibrant green stemmy note is gone in 5 minutes or less. You are left with a very soft green, which is nice, but so close to the skin I simply cannot smell it with out pressing my nose to skin. As much as I love the beginning, this one is out of the running. I am very sad, I love what this one could have been.

Coromandel - Definitely more presence when sprayed, as I did say, this is the longest lasting of the group.Upon spraying the benzoin comes on particularly strong. I barely noticed it when applied by vial. It really dominates here in the spray. Still not getting amber. As much as I thought by description this was the one for me, I am eliminating it also.

Eau de Cologne - I liked this one even more upon liberal spraying, but still I'm not sure I want a gallon (oops, 400ml) of it. Lemoney and sweet, but I think you can find the same effect with longer lasting ability with Fresh's Lemon Sugar. I guess I might buy a big decant for summer if I see it on eBay.

31 Rue Cambon - Still my favorite of the group, I am begining to think it reminds me of a cross between No 22 and Bois des Iles. Both of which I like better. Hummm.

Sky - Gendarme - Review

The newest release from Gendarme is Sky, set to debut May 2007. Those of us lucky enough to attend the LA Sniffapalooza were gifted with a generous 10ml decant PREVIEW of the lovely new scent. Not to mention getting to personally meet Topper Schroeder. I was fortunate enough to have a little chat with him at lunch and found him interesting, kind and gracious.

The juice is a pale sky blue. No notes were given, but to my nose there is a lot of bergamot in the opening, and that being one of my favorite notes, is probably why this one is so appealing.

Over all I would call this an "Aquatic" having said that, I began to wonder the difference between Aquatic and Ozone notes. While smelling this my initial reaction is aquatic, but with a name like Sky, I guess it would be safer to say it's an ozone note. And I must say if there is a difference in the two, my mind cannot summon the other while smelling this one. Either way you get the drift. The drydown remains aquatic, but what seems to be a peppered wood comes into play.

I realize many are adverse to these fresh scents, but this one is very well done and I think it will be quite lovely on a Spring day, in fact it is quite lovely on this day in warm sunny Southern California today.

For comparison you might like to read the lovely description written on the For The Love OF ... blog. Funny, my impression is this is a Feminine fragrance that might work Unisex, as you will see she feels the opposite: SKY - Review

Perfect Kiss - Creative Sentualization - Review

Do you remember that perfect kiss? No not the first kiss, Steve King running up to you in the crosswalk on the way to sixth grade and planting one right on your lips. Ewww! No, I mean the Perfect one. The one that took your breath away.
Sarah Horowitz-Thran of Creative Sentualization has now created: Perfect Kiss

Samples of this great new fragrance were presented to us exclusively as a Pre-Release at the LA Sniffapalooza. Intended to be released to the public on Valentine's Day, unfortunately we will have to wait till Mother's Day to get our hands on a full bottle of this heavenly juice.

I have been struggling to determine the notes. There is a chocolate note there but not in an obvious chocolate way, more the way tonka beans project chocolate, or an illusion of chocolate. I also detect hints of rose. There is an ever so slightly indolic jasmine in the base. I get a Apres L'Ondee feel at times, which make me think there may be either anise or violets involved in the fray. It is sweet like nectar but not candy sweet. Whatever it is I want it. Now.

Please see the lovely review by For The love of ... Blog Perfect Kiss

Photo: The Matrix 3

Les Exclusifs de Chanel - Chanel - Review

Les Exclusifs de Chanel is comprised of 10 fragrances. There are 6 new fragrances added to the existing 4 exclusive boutique collection which includes Cuir de Russie, Bois des Iles, Chanel no 22, and Gardenia and are created by nose Jacques Polge. Polge said that "We wanted fragrances which were unusual and special," he said, noting that while several are favorite notes, most are too costly to use in a more widely distributed scent such as the house's Chance or Coco Mademoiselle. "Above all, we tried to do fragrances which are very different from one another and very different from what is currently offered in the market. These are the ingredients [that] we simply wouldn't have in the quantity to use in a more widely distributed fragrance."

I have reviewed the new Chanels in order of my preference - I think - at least for now:

31 Rue Cambon - (an experimental chypre that omits the classic oakmoss note) a "dry, musky, nutty scent." Starting out a dry iris and a little woody, this one surprised me because I don't normally like this dry of a scent. But there is a hint of sweetness here that blooms in the mid notes and reminds me of a less powdery No. 22. Drying down very soft with a lightly sweet finish. Vary elegant.

Bel Respiro - (green leaves and stems) "intended to evoke stems, leaves and springtime." Immediately on first sniff I thought Aliage. The same bold greeness. Definitely getting the cut stems here. If you are an Aliage fan, you will love this too. Unlike Aliage, unfortunately this settles down too quickly into a soft slightly sweet, green scent. Still nice, but too bad the top notes don't hang around longer.

Coromandel - (dry ambery oriental) "an oriental fragrance using a tree resin called benzoin, which has vanilla-like properties"...Like Chanel's apartment that inspired it, it is not "innocent", it is "weighted by frankincense" and "contains a hint of the heavier spices of the East". I thought sure I would like this one best, but actually it's my third choice. A touch of Pois de Senteur and dab of Teint de Neige with a slight green notes that runs throughout. I'm not really finding any amber here.

Eau de Cologne - "a lively floral.... with citrus, bergamot and neroli." A typical summer splash cologne with the feel of 4711 meets Fresh Sugar, then inexplicably begins turning sweeter and sweeter. Which I thought was different, but nice, since I like sweet.

28 La Pausa - (iris)"a powdery scent based on the oil from iris pallida (known as sweet iris), one of the most expensive products available to perfumers..." "named for a house Mlle. Chanel owned in the South of France." No.31 is a nicer Iris in my book, but I guess I'm not an iris enthusiast. Starting out very dry iris, sweetening in the middle resembling Iris Poudre, then ending (way too fast I might add) with a slight green note, before fading to nothingness.

No. 18 - (Ambrette seed)"named for the Chanel fine jewelry boutique at Place Vendome." Last on my list. Not sure what to make of this, it's not bad, but not really good either. A bit harsh and raspy in the opening, slightly peppery, then as with the others, it sweetens slightly in the drydown. Wearable, but why?

Where to get your hands on a sample set? Some of you may know Nancy, a trusted eBay fragrance seller whom I hope you will add to your favorite sellers! Her eBay name is Fishbone96 her store is: Fishbone Fragrances.

Lovely Nancy is selling the CHANEL EXCLUSIFS - SIX Sample Set! Small Vial sets or Decant Sets or just one or two, anything you want just ask and she will quote you. She has them all and is ready to ship now! Please email inquiries to her directly at: fishbone96@mac.com For a great price and fast shipping!

Bottom Line - I'm surprised to find them all quite wearable. I see a common trait that runs throughout, a light sweetness that begins mid way and develops differently in each. I like sweet, but I think this will deter some. I think I'll order a decant set and wear them a couple days each before commiting to a bottle that large. Or even to sharing a bottle. The impulse is to buy a bottle or two or three of your favorites. But I think we need to step back from the hype and really consider if we love these, over what we already own, or enough to wear it often enough to justify the price and size. And another note or reminder here - they are EDT and don't last long! Yes, most can still be detected if you smoosh your nose to your arm, but I need a liberal spraying to see how they are really going to perform by mid-day on the job. Touch up decants will be required throughout the day I suspect, but then I guess 200ml will go a long way.

The fragrances are available for $175 for 200ml and the eau de cologne for $300 for a 400ml splash bottle.

Absolument Absinthe - Le Parfum d'Interdits - Review

Immediately upon testing this one, there was a familiarity. And no, not a flashback from my days at Ohio University. In fact I don't smell any cannabis at all and neither did hubby upon the wrist under nose test or in the drydown. There is a slight cool greenness here that I attribute to the absinthe note, but I can't be sure. Aside from that, it's all CK One. Not to say that's a bad thing. I wore CK One for a few years, and still like it, although I don't currently own it. It's a cool, fresh, clean scent. Uplifting and happy.

For comparison I did a little research and found no less than FIVE matching notes shared between the two. I have included both sets of notes below. Now I have a lovely friend with a much different skin type than me and on her the cannabis flies in full glory. So as the LuckyScent copy reads it is a "chameleon-like scent and highly reactive to everyone's own unique body chemistry, we passed it around and were able to smell a gorgeous cornucopia of scents on different people."

CK One Notes:
Bergamot, Cardamom, Fresh Pineapple, Papaya, Jasmine, Violet, Rose, Nutmeg, Musk

Absolument Absinthe Notes:
Cannabis, black tea, bergamot, Iranian galbanum, lily of the valley, lotus flower, jasmine, ylang-ylang, nutmeg, Ceylon cardamom, sandalwood, musks

Available at: LuckyScent

Spirit of the Tiger - Heeley - Review

Esprit du Tigre or Spirit of the Tiger is interesting. At first I thought I didn't like it. Yet, slowly it began to seduce me. The opening is unique to say the least. A camphor mint combo with spicy undertones.

Those who love Heeley will quickly recognize this as the same mint note as used in the Menthe Fraiche. The Mint was my first Heeley purchase and a staple in my summer fragrance wardrobe. Reaching for it over and over, I fell hard for the delicate, cool, soft mint note.

Upon first sniffing Tiger you may think sports creme, as intended; it was meant to mimic the scent of Tiger Balm, hence the name. But really the clove note is the dominate note of this fragrance, and truly a star. Kept crisp and fresh by the underlying soft mint. Those who love clove will be more than pleased. Even carnation lovers may be pleasantly surprised by the drydown of the clove.

I am as surprised as you to think that this may just be FBW (Full Bottle Worthy). I am passing on the last of my sample to a friend, but I already have that craving. The one that says BUY IT NOW.

These latest three Heeley offerings seem to be geared more masculine, the names, the bold titles and the more masculine bottle shape. But I have to say they are done in very much a unisex way, myself being one to rarely venture into men's cologne feel very comfortable in these, in fact.

Notes:
Camphor, mint, clove, cardamon

Available at: LuckyScent

Cardinal - Heeley - Review

Cardinal is a nice, simple, incense scent. The essential incense note here is similar to the incense note in Etro Messe de Minuit but accompanying it there are no damp and moldy notes; this is lightly smoky, warm and comforting. MdM is the incensey, cold, damp, stone church basement where the ancient scrolls are stored. Cardinal is the church attic where the warm sweet incense rises and the sunlight filters in through the rafters.

I know there will be those of you asking how it compares to the CdG Incense line, to that I will say having tried all those I never liked any enough to buy a full bottle. And other than that, I have no specific memory of them. For what ever reason all fell short of what I wanted. Now the SMN Citta di Kyoto comes closer, but the Citta is more woody and slightly medicinal. I was set to buy Citta when my decant runs out, until Cardinal came along. I much prefer Cardinal, but I guess that will be up to each individual's taste. Maybe those who long for the discontined Matthew Williamson Incense will find solace here.

As some of you know I'm quite a fan of this line. The scents are clean, modern with an uncomplicated straightforward approach. They all have a simple understated elegance about them that makes them so wearable.

Notes:
Incense, cistus, grey amber, patchouli, vetiver

Available from: LuckyScent

Blue Sugar - Aquolina - Review

Blue Sugar is the men's fragrance answer to the best selling women's Pink Sugar. The huge success of Pink Sugar demanded a counterpart I suppose. And while Blue Sugar is less sweet overall, that caramelized sugar note is present and combined with vanilla and tonka bean, make it definitely sweet. Too sweet? Well that will be up to the man, because I'm sure women will love and wear this and try to get their men to wear it too. But if they will, remains to be seen. Either way there will be a market for it at least for awhile. Attempting to deny the Sugar = feminine name, the ad touts that it is "supremely masculine".

Starting out similar to Pink Sugar, with a carmelized sugar note, this one then takes a turn towards the dreaded celery note. (Dreaded for me, but I hear some folks acutally like that.) Once that is rather quickly passed, it begins to quickly tone down, soften, staying close to the skin. Not much sillage compared to Pink Sugar. But it does linger on the skin. So overall it's a few notches scaled back and not quite so sweet. Nothing here to proclude a woman from wearing this.

Notes:
Bergamot, Tangerine Leaves, Star Anise, Ginger, Licorice, Patchouli Leaves, Lavender, Heliotrope, Coriander, Caramel, Vanilla, Cedarwood, Tonka Bean.

Available at: SEPHORA

On sale right now at: Parfum1

Island Hawaii - Michael Kors - Review

Island Hawaii is a limited edition scent following in the footsteps of the best selling Island Fiji that completely sold out within a month of its April 2006 launch. From my testing so far, I have a feeling this one will sell out too.

The opening is a very juicy orange blast. I don't get any of the pineapple that is listed as there, but it is bright and juicy. The way the orange notes then fade into the orange flower and jasmine mid notes keep it from feeling like a fruity floral. It feels a little soapy during this transition, but that doesn't last long.

Soon the mid notes evolve completely, becoming lush and creamy, the jasmine just beautiful. The drydown keeps the jasmine, softer now and joined with a light ambery sandalwood. Really a beautiful scent, I much prefer this to Island or Fiji, in fact I'll be adding this to my next shopping list.

As the ad says, it is quite luminous.

According to Fashiontribes Daily: Hawaii was "Developed jointly by International Flavors & Fragrances and Trudi Loren, vice president of corporate fragrance development worldwide for Aramis and Designer Fragrances, the fragrance breaks down as follows:

TOP NOTES: clementine, juicy orange, hydroponic pineapple & neroli
HEART: orange flower, jasmine sambac & Hawaiian ginger lily
DRYDOWN: white amber, creamy sandalwood & balsamic notes"

And I hear there is a matching lip gloss balm ($12) in juicy orange coming soon!

Hawaii is available at: Nordstrom