Monday, July 17, 2006

Bois D' Armenie - Guerlain - Review

The newest fragrance to be added to the Guerlain L'Art et la Matiere line is Bois D' Armenie. It will join Cuir Beluga, Rose Barbare and Angelique Noire.

Notes are "pink pepper, iris, rose, coriander, benzoin, Indonesian patchouli, incense, precious woods, musk and balsams." Bois d'Armenie is exclusive to the Paris Champs Elysées store, at least for the time being.

Bois D'Armenie gets its name from the incense burning papers called Papier d'Armenie. These papers are folded accordion style, then lit on the end and then blown out, which causes the paper to burn slowly releasing the incense notes. You can read more about Papier d'Armenie and its origins by clicking here:
Papier d'Armenie

Very different for a Guerlain, none of the Guerlainade here. The fragrance opens with a light medicinal benzoin note. Slowly it turns more and more like the scent of a smoky wood fire. In the final stages it softens to a barely there incense note, very close to the skin. At one point it really does smell like the burning papers of my headshop youth. While the idea of smelling like warm, woody incense, is romantic and appealing, the truth is you smell like pieces of burning incense paper. Not really all that appealing when you actually put it on. At least to me. Dry, incense, wood fire, smokiness; is just not my idea of a perfume scent. A touch of sweetness with a little more floral would have made this infinitely more wearable for me. Of course I'm sure many of you love woody incense notes, and those who do, may really enjoy this.

Bottle photo:
Bois D'Armenie photo:


Cait Shortell said...

I want to try all the new Guerlains but this doesn't sound so good. I have a good feeling about Quand Vient l'ete, though. Have you tried that?

besotted said...

Hi Vic, I bought some papier d'armenie after reading about this one and I have to say - if the scent is anything like the way the paper smells as it smolders, it will be one I'll be passing up.

Thanks for the review!

colombina said...

I will probably love this for the same reasons that you didn't like it :-) I like smoky!

Anonymous said...

Hi Vic,

Enjoyed your review. This fragrance is definitely not for me. The smokey note you mention is exactly why I can't wear Shalimar either. You saved me money. :))

How about this heat and humidity????

Victoria said...

Hi Cait, Quand Vient l'ete has an anise opening that makes me kind of queasy. The drydown is lovely, but I don't love it overall enough to be FBW.

Victoria said...

Hi Terry, yes it's dry and pretty dead on. Like smoke from a wood fire, or paper I guess. :O)

Victoria said...

colombina, it isn't realy smoky in the tradional note way, but rather smells of wood smoke or burning paper, if that makes sense. But you may like it, if you like dry non-sweet scents. :O)

Victoria said...

Hi Dawn, no I don't think it's for you. Not to worry; there are a few more reviews coming that will be right up your alley!

Anonymous said...

Great site lots of usefull infomation here.

Julie said...

There is also a Candle from Papier d'Armenie. I found the candle online for $29.99 ( cheaper than in Europe.
You can also find the 3 booklets for $12.99 or 6 booklets for $25. I did buy those as I still have some that I bought in France earlier this year.
Love the smell.